Khmer Woodcarving

Recarving an art niche in Cambodian culture

Wednesday, 08 July 2009 14:00 Stephanie Mee
The Phnom Penh Post

Master wood-carver Chan Sim survived the Khmer Rouge purging of artists and now passes on the tradition of Khmer woodcarving to the next generation

Photo by: Stephanie Mee

PROFESSOR Chan Sim watches keenly as his students delicately chip away at blocks of wood, using metal tools to shape it into figures, scenes and decorative lintels based on designs and motifs passed down for centuries.

The small gallery and workshop on Street 178 are Chan Sim's, as are the students who are among hundreds who study under the master wood-carver to learn the ancient practice of Khmer woodcarving in the hopes of one day opening their own successful woodworking studios.

The 73 year-old Chan Sim began his journey into the art world in 1950 when he enrolled at the Royal University of Fine Arts. He studied visual arts such as painting, sculpture and woodcarving as well as history and archaeology, and in 1957 was awarded a Bachelor of Fine Arts. In 1959 he started teaching at the university, specialising in teaching woodcarving until the onset of the civil war in Cambodia.

Rich tradition
"When I was in university, many people from all over the region wanted to learn Khmer arts, including many Thais and Laotians who attended the school," says Chan Sim.

"It is a rich tradition that is steeped in history and symbolism, and is aesthetically stunning. Unfortunately, during the war this all changed."

The Khmer Rouge regime deemed the traditional Khmer arts unnecessary to their socialist agrarian revolution and purged countless monuments, artistic works and educated artists during its 1975-1979 rule of the country.

Chan Sim survived this dark period by hiding his education, telling people he was a simple labourer carving doorways for houses. When senior Khmer Rouge officials brought him stencils and blueprints for woodcarvings with foreign lettering he pretended not to be able to read the characters despite his fluency in French and slight knowledge of English. "Before the war there were 40 master wood-carvers in Cambodia," he says. "Only four of us survived."

After the liberation of Cambodia from the Khmer Rouge, Chan Sim immediately began teaching woodcarving again, and in 1980 opened up his shop, Art of Khmer Angkor, that still stands today. He has made it his life's goal to teach the rich history and specialised techniques of traditional Khmer woodcarving.

Photo by: Stephanie Mee

Professor Chan Sim at his workshop Art of Khmer Angkor on Steet 178.

Heavy Hindu influence
He explains, "Khmer woodworking can be traced back as far as the 6th century AD, and was heavily influenced by Indian styles and designs and images from the Hindu religious pantheon, and later Buddhism.

"During the Angkor period, skilled artists were called upon by the kings to contribute their work to the vast building plans at Angkor, and it was then that the four main design types of Cambodia were consolidated."

Khmer woodworking design motifs have typically used four main styles since the Angkor period: wind, water, land and air. Each style has unique defining aspects, and symbolises elements of the human experience.

The wind style uses graceful curlicues and motifs of clouds to represent life and breath. The water style uses images of plants, such as lotus flowers, lily pads and fish to symbolise the life-giving force of water. The land style symbolises the body and makes use of vines, flowers, tree stalks and plant stems while the fire style employs intricate flame designs and is mainly used in temples, funerals and cremation ceremonies as it represents war and death.

"Khmer style is quite different from Thai or Laotian styles," says Chan Sim. "For example, the Thai like to use the fire style in many of their wooden artworks.

"Everywhere you go in Thailand you see these designs, but for Cambodians, this style symbolizes very negative aspects, so we use it very carefully."

Chen Sim explains that Khmer woodcarving designs rely heavily on spirituality, and many are religious in nature. "The most powerful images are statues that are highly realistic, and these must be treated with respect as spirits are often fooled into thinking they are real, and will come to inhabit the object," he said.

Powerful symbolism
"To be a proper woodcarver you must be aware of the power of symbols, the styles and the designs as well as the history behind the art."

The master woodcarver has also compiled two comprehensive books titled Book for Learning to Draw and Sculpt by Yourself, parts I and II, both of which contain blueprints and grids of drawing scales for common Khmer design motifs and have been endorsed by the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts. In 2000, the Ministry awarded him a certificate designating him a Master of Khmer Fine Arts.

As for Chen Sim's students, many study for years under his tutelage either at Norton University or the Royal University of Fine Arts, or at his workshop at Arts of Khmer Angkor.

Nationwide input
"My students come from all over Cambodia, from every province," he said. "They are keen to learn woodcarving and sculpture in order to preserve and carry on this aspect of Khmer culture, and because it can be very lucrative. Many return to their home provinces after they have mastered the art and set up their own shops, distributing their works to shops throughout Cambodia."

Wooden statues at shops along Street 178 range in value, from US $3.00 for a small wooden apsara at Arts of Angkor up to US $20,000 for a life-size wooden elephant at nearby Kosal Gallery. Prices vary depending on size, quality of wood and the skills of the carver.

As Chen Sim walked around the workshop giving tips to the diligent students, he stopped at one young carver working on a wooden reproduction of the famous statue of Jayavarman VII and said: "Very nice; almost perfect!"

The student swelled with pride and continued his work with extra vigour, smiling broadly as he did so.

Cambodian Rice Wine

How rice wine ferments the Cambodian spirit
Thursday, 02 July 2009
Stephanie Mee
The Phnom Penh Post


AN old English proverb says, "Good wine needs no bush", meaning that something of good quality does not need to be advertised. This is especially true of Cambodia's traditional alcoholic beverage srah sohl, or rice wine.

As rice is the primary staple of most Cambodian diets, it comes as no surprise that the cheapest and most popular alcoholic beverage for most Cambodians is a potent brew made from the plentiful grain.

Similar to sake from Japan or cheongju from Korea, rice wine in Cambodia is produced by fermenting grains of rice until the starches in the rice convert into sugars, resulting in a mildly alcoholic liquid. Unlike wine made from grapes, the fermentation period can take as little as 24 hours.

"Once you have the equipment, the process is quite simply really," said Dos Lun of Tang Russey village in Takeo province.

Every second day Dos Lun boils 25 kilos of rice, lays it to dry in the sun, and then transfers it to plastic buckets, where it is mixed with a natural fermenting agent called dom bai in Khmer. The mixture is then left to bubble and ferment overnight. Once the rice has fermented, it is dumped into a large metal vat along with pure rainwater and covered with a purpose-built lid, sealed with a rice husk paste.

Leftover rice husks and scrap wood are used to start a small fire under the vat, heating the rice mixture so that the watery, alcoholic mixture evaporates, travelling up two metal pipes protruding from the lid and down through a concrete container full of water. The water in the container cools the liquid in the pipes, and a small spigot at the bottom of the container releases the clear, pure, mildly grainy-flavoured rice wine.

"There are three stages of wine," said Dos Lun. "The first batch is extremely strong, and is not suitable for drinking. The second stage is the best, at about 30-percent alcohol content, and the third stage is very weak. I often mix the first and third batches to create an evenly balanced blend."

Dos Lun sells his natural rice wine from his stilted wooden house in the midst of rice fields and cow paddocks for 2,000 riels a litre, and can sell as many as 20 litres a day. "People like to buy rice wine from me because they know it's natural and not bad for you," he said. "You have to be careful because some producers of rice wine that sell in bulk from stores or roadside stalls put chemicals and pesticides in the wine to make it taste stronger, but really it just makes you sick."

Takeo native Khem Sokkhieng said, "I like to drink rice wine during special festivals or holidays and sometimes when I'm relaxing with friends or family, but some people drink it every day. Farmers who work in the rice fields will often drink one glass of srah sohl in the morning before they go to the fields in order to warm their body, and then again at night to relax."

Srah sohl can also be used as a base for traditional Khmer medicinal remedies, which many claim can cure everything from muscle aches, fatigue and stomach disorders to menstrual cramps and labour pains.

Medicinal rice wine in Cambodia goes by the name srah tinum, and can be produced by infusing pure rice wine with items such as herbs, roots, tree bark, and even insects.

Chen Veasna, owner of Restaurant No 66, a family-run restaurant on Street 360, has been selling srah tinum at the two-level restaurant for fifteen years, and believes wholeheartedly in its healing powers.

"All of the wine we sell here is good for aches and pains in the body," she said. "Some of the varieties are particularly good for women, although anybody can drink any of the varieties. And the greatest advantage of our wine is that it doesn't burn your stomach when you drink it because it contains no harsh mixtures or harmful ingredients."

Varieties of medicinal rice wine at the restaurant include srah gondia, a dark, rum-coloured brew that is made by infusing red termites in rice wine and then straining the bodies out. The resulting drink tastes a bit sweet and earthy, with flavours of almonds and nutmeg. It is said to help with blood circulation and menstrual cramps.

Srah bondul pich is made from the woody stems of a small plant native to Cambodia and possesses a vibrant yellow colour, with an extremely strong, bitter taste that coats the tongue long after it is swallowed. It is said to be most beneficial for elderly people and cure arthritis, rheumatism and body pains.

Srah tinum chen sei is the most common type of medicinal rice wine in Cambodia and is often taken to alleviate stomach disorders and fatigue. The best tasting wine by far at Restaurant No 66 is srah dom narp k'mull, a strongly alcoholic, sweet and slightly spicy blend, made from black sticky rice. The busy restaurant also sells regular srah sohl.

All rice wine at Restaurant No 66 is sold by the litre and varies in price depending on the variety. "I can't even count the number of people that come here every day to purchase rice wine," said Chen Veasna. "People love it because it is healthy and it won't give you a headache or hangover the next morning, provided, of course, you don't go overboard on it."

Whether imbibed as a social lubricant, for pleasure, or for curative purposes, srah sohl is a long-established element of traditional Khmer culture, and to quote a common Khmer colloquialism, "If you don't drink, how will the rice wine merchant make his living?"

Cambodian Jasmine Farms

Jasmine season yields its offerings

Written by Stephanie Mee

Thursday, 25 June 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

A skip and jump from Phnom Penh, Kroh Kroubey village is famous for its jasmine farms, of which the fragrant and cream-coloured buds are often used to create offerings to Buddha Photo by: Stephanie Mee Sun Sey harvesting jasmine. Every morning, a sweet, floral scent wafts through Nuon Chenda's house and grounds. As small girls weave their way in and out of the bushes in the back yard, picking tiny white buds from the shrubs, the delicate aroma of p'kah maleas, or jasmine flowers, perfumes the air. "Right now is the best season to collect the jasmine flowers, as the water from the daily rains helps the plants produce many buds and flowers," said Nuon Chenda, the owner of a jasmine farm in Koh Kroubey village, an area renowned in Cambodia for its bountiful jasmine farms. With help from a team of local village girls, Nuon Chenda harvests the whitish-green buds of the jasmine early every morning before the flower can bloom, and sells the fragrant buds to wholesalers, who in turn transport the produce to Phnom Penh to be sold at various markets. Eleven-year old Sun Sey, who works on the farm, says that she can usually pick 1 or 2 kilograms of the flowers per day, taking her around three hours. "I get paid 3,000 riels (US$0.75) per kilogramme. Sometimes people come here to buy directly from us, but more often, the buds are sold to a large buyer," Sun Sey said. Nuon Chenda in turn sells the buds at $1 a kilogramme, although prices vary depending on the season. "Right now, because the bushes are flowering so well, the price for jasmine is low, but during the cold season (December to February) the plants don't produce as many flowers, so the price jumps to $25 a kilogramme," she said. On a busy day, such as a Buddhist holiday, Nuon Chenda can sell up to seven kilogrammes of jasmine buds a day, although her average yield is usually around four kilos. Decorative ornaments and offerings In Cambodia, jasmine buds are predominantly used to create offerings to Buddha, due to their heavenly fragrance and creamy white colour. In fact, the English word for jasmine comes from the Persian word yasmin, meaning "a gift from the gods". Buds and flowers are also used in decorative ornaments for temples, festivals, birthday parties and weddings, and the blossoms can be added to holy water used for blessings by the monks or boiled in water to make an aromatic jasmine tea. Taking a break from jasmine picking, Sun Sey demonstrated her skills in creating sweet-smelling offerings for the temple. "There are two main types of jasmine offerings," she said as her nimble fingers deftly threaded small buds onto a long wooden needle made from coconut branches. "Je kah is a thin stick with layers of buds circling it, usually with a purple or red flower on the end of it, and pum melei is the circular garland, which many people put around the neck of a Buddha or Shiva statue." Villagers in Koh Kroubey have a long tradition of growing jasmine, and farming methods and ornamentation techniques here have been passed down from generation to generation. Although the harvests may not be as abundant or lucrative as rice, jasmine is a year-round crop, and requires little maintenance once the trees have grown for two years. Sophea Sophat, a local jasmine farmer and mother of three, explains that the jasmine trees in Koh Kroubey are hardy plants, requiring no harsh pesticides, merely a simple fertiliser of vegetable compost. Trees are cut back after three to four years in order to encourage the growth of young, delicate buds and blossoms. As for the money, Sophea Sophat explained, "I'm not getting rich, but it's enough to put money in the pot for my family and food in our mouths". "I can't imagine doing anything else or not waking up to the lovely scent of fresh jasmine in the morning," Sophea Sophat added. Koh Kroubey can be reached from Phnom Penh by crossing the new Monivong bridge towards Kien Svay and taking the first right onto Street 369, and then a left at the large stone temple gates. The best time to go is in the morning when the jasmine buds are fresh, and farmers will custom-make temple offerings and flower arrangements on-site.

Warung Bali review

Popular Indonesian dishes reflect diversity of the islands

Written by Stephanie Mee

Wednesday, 24 June 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

Warung Bali restaurant offers one of Phnom Penh’s finest examples of Indonesia’s unique cuisine, along with traditional culture and hospitality Photo by: Sovann Philong Warung Bali restaurant, on Street 178 west of Sothearos Boulevard. TUCKED away amid several fried noodle shops on Street 178 near Sothearos is a small unassuming restaurant with simple, plastic-covered tables and wooden chairs. At first glance, one might be forgiven for mistaking it for another Khmer eatery, but in fact Warung Bali is one of Phnom Penh's finest examples of the unique cuisine of Indonesia. Indonesia is a nation made up of more than 6,000 islands, a population of approximately 240 million people, and more than 300 ethnic groups. Thus, it is no surprise that the food from this vast archipelago reflects the diversity of its islands. At Warung Bali, native Javanese owners Pirdaos and Kasmin offer some of the most popular Indonesian dishes, along with a little bit of Indonesian culture. "When I moved here 13 years ago, there were not many places to eat Indonesian food," said Kasmin from the small but bustling eatery. "My boss at that time decided to open Bali Cafe on the riverside, and it did well, but the prices were a bit high. When it closed two years ago, I saw the opportunity to open up a small warung (Indonesian for a small family-owned restaurant) where we could offer authentic Indonesian food at lower prices," he added. Kasmin said that, although he doesn't make a lot of profit from the food sales, his restaurant does well due to the sheer numbers of customers, mostly made up of Indonesian travellers and expatriates, as well as Western customers. "Indonesian food is similar to Khmer food in some ways, but in other ways very different," Kasmin said. "For example, Indonesian food can be much spicier than Khmer food, and the meat is often marinated in a variety of spices before cooking. Also, the soy sauce is sweeter and thicker. In fact we make our own soy sauce here in the traditional Indonesian style." On the menu Warung Bali's most popular menu item is the ayam bakar kecap Bali, tender, marinated chunks of chicken on the bone, grilled and smothered in Kasmin's homemade soy sauce with a hint of coconut and garlic, and garnished with fresh chilli and peanuts. Other popular dishes include gado gado, a salad of lightly steamed vegetables such as crisp, green string beans, crunchy cabbage leaves and sliced potatoes in a fragrant peanut, chilli and lime sauce; and sate sapi, marinated grilled beef skewers served with spicy Indonesian peanut sauce and sweet soy sauce. "These dishes come from all over Indonesia, not just Bali," Kasmin said. "Different dishes originated in different regions, although they are eaten widely throughout Indonesia. For example, the gado gado is a Jakarta-inspired dish, and the sate ayam (chicken satay) originates from Madura in East Java." As Indonesia is the world's most populous Muslim nation, much of the food outside of the small island of Bali is Halal, and Warung Bali is no exception despite its name. "You will never find pork, frog or dog here," Kasmin said. Dishes at Warung Bali are a bargain, ranging from 6,000 riels (US$1.50) to 10,000 riels for portions large enough to be shared with friends or family. Taste of Indonesia Kasmin and Pirdaos also offer customers a taste of the culture of Indonesia at the cafe, with authentic Indonesian paintings and batik hangings on the walls, and a large wooden table, loaded with books and magazines containing information about their native country. Part of the restaurant's popularity also comes from the open and affable nature of the owners, who are quick to offer a broad smile to newcomers and who never forget a face. Service is quick, easy-going and reliable. For a taste of Indonesia at bargain prices visit Warung Bali at 25Eo Street 178, or call 012 967 480.

Lunch Box review

A different sort of sandwich

Written by Stephanie Mee

Monday, 22 June 2009

The Lunch Box in Phnom Penh offers an experience altogether beyond lettuce, tomato and meat on bread – gourmet meals amid unpretentious surroundings Photo by: Stephanie Mee Co-owners of The Lunch Box, Thoeun Soeun and Eliza Mealey. SANDWICH orders in many of Phnom Penh's restaurants and cafes generally consist of the ubiquitous baguette or plain white bread with mandatory lettuce and tomato, and a choice of meat. In fact, most of the time it hardly matters where the sandwich is ordered, as the basic formula is the same across the board. Bona fide foodies will rejoice, then, that Phnom Penh's newest lunch spot, The Lunch Box, has dared to deviate from the norm, offering many hard-to-come-by gourmet ingredients and home-cooked specials in a shady garden setting next to Wat Lanka. "The idea was simple really," said Eliza Mealey, owner of the Lunch Box and a native of Brisbane, Australia. "I wanted to open a place where I could offer food that I really miss from home, things like creative deli-style sandwiches with a variety of fresh breads, vegetables, meats, cheeses and condiments to choose from, and unique specials - things that people might not necessarily find in many other eateries around the capital." Diners at the Lunch Box can opt to construct their own sandwich using a myriad of ingredients from the brightly lit refrigerated display case or try one of the cafe's original concoctions from the menu board displayed above the cosy wooden bar. Gourmet all the way Gourmet sandwiches include the Vego-delight: roasted pumpkin and red pepper, goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, caramelized onions and basil, wrapped in fresh Lebanese flat bread; or the Antipasto Wrap: basil cream cheese, salami, mozzarella, olives, red pepper, artichokes and gherkins in a soft pita bread. Fresh, inventive ingredients at the cafe include Turkish flat bread, olive and herb focaccia, lightly spiced pepper ham, homemade pesto chicken, roasted pumpkin spread, guacamole, tzatziki and marinated artichokes, to name a few. Lunch specials change daily, and can range from a flaky ricotta and asparagus tart to a fresh Nicoise salad, bursting with veggies and tuna, to home-cooked lasagna. The cafe also offers a full breakfast menu with a range of coffee selections, including espressos, lattes, and iced blends, as well as omelettes, croissants, fresh Cambodian fruits and muesli. The oddly popular Aussie favourite, Vegemite with gourmet toast, is also on offer. "It was important for me to create a space that wasn't stuffy or pretentious," said Mealey. "I want people to be able to come here and order a really nice breakfast or sandwich, relax, read the newspaper, or meet friends for a coffee and a chat." The location of The Lunch Box is ideal for a casual breakfast or lunch given that it is centrally located on a quiet side street next to Wat Lanka, mercifully free from the jarring noise pollution that often plagues the city. Lush tropical greenery creates shade and seclusion, and a large, flowering jasmine tree next to the gate scents the air in the cafe. All of the fluffy pillows adorning the wooden and rattan chairs were made locally with materials purchased in Cambodia, and a few of the tables, chairs, and lamp shades were made by the cafe's Cambodian co-owner, Thoeun Soeun. "I like to use the word ‘quirky' to describe this place," said Mealey. "We like to joke and say it's a little bit of Brisbane and a little bit of Prey Veng (Thoeun Soeun's home province)." The cafe is open from 7am to 4pm daily excluding Mondays, and offers dine-in service, as well as quick and easy take away. Plans are afoot for delivery service in the near future. To enjoy gourmet food in a tranquil setting, visit The Lunch Box at 14, Street 282 in Boeung Keng Kang I, or for more information call 012 893 784.

Kampot's Cave Temples

Kampot's cave temples make for a magical trip

Written by Stephanie Mee

Thursday, 18 June 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

Long believed to be magical sites, Kampot’s temples are safeguarded by pious elderly men and women, and scores of knowledgeable children Photo by: Stephanie Mee Loak Ta Neak Sohlor or 'Grandfather White Dragon'. KAMPOT DEEP within the limestone karsts scattered across Cambodia's Kampot province lie networks of cave temples, some of which have been used for centuries as centres of Hindu and Buddhist worship. Long believed to be magical and spiritual sites, today the temples are safeguarded by pious elderly men and women, and scores of small children. Just eight kilometres east of quiet Kampot town lies Phnom Chngouk, one of Kampot's oldest known cave temples. The winding dirt road to the temple snakes past scenic views of the Cambodian countryside, lush with rice paddies, small farms and dramatic limestone formations, covered in dense vegetation. Shortly before the muddy footpath to the base of Phnom Chngouk, packs of smiling schoolboys lie in wait, leaping at the chance to offer their services as tour guides to the cave in the hopes of bringing in extra income for their families, many of whom are local farmers. Phnom Chngouk itself is a hulking limestone karst, which contains many hidden chambers, rocky outcrops and stalactites, formed by calcium carbonate deposits in water. The largest cave contains an ancient red brick Hindu temple resting under a massive rock formation resembling an eagle. The temple was built in the 7th century, during the Funan period, and today is tended to by the elderly Loak Ta Neak Sohl, or "Grandfather White Dragon". "I came to this area 12 years ago to devote myself to the Buddhist dharma and meditate," Loak Ta Neak Sohl said. "At that time not many people knew about this temple; there were no steps up to the cavern, only forest and rocks. With my encouragement, the villagers pooled their money to build stone steps up to the temple." The slight, wiry patriarch explained that many electronic devices such as cell phones and watches cease to work in the cave, and that even airplanes and helicopters never fly over the site, as it interferes with their controls. Next to the main chamber is a passageway that leads to the interior of the cave. The path is slippery and dark, and littered with large boulders, a stalactite resembling the head of a cow, and a cool, subterranean pond filled with tiny black fish. The journey through the cave and out to the rice fields below and behind the mountain is easily negotiated by the young boys who hop effortlessly through the obstacles with only a flashlight. But it is not an easy trip for first-time visitors. "Tourists don't often explore this cavern, as they are too scared," said 16-year-old Sun Pet, who comes to the cave and offers his services as a tour guide whenever he has free time. "If people want to go, I take them through, but only if they are under 80 or 90 kilogrammes, as some of the passageways are too tight for larger visitors." Photo by: Stephanie Mee Cave Buddha shrine at Wat Kirisan. White Elephant cave Further down the road from Phnom Chngouk is Phnom Sorsia, or White Elephant Cave, a small hill that houses an impressive modern wat and a number of small underground chambers. Local teenage boys point visitors towards the main cavern where a large rock formation in the shape of an ele- phant glitters with mineral deposits in the low light. Man-made steps hewn into the dank stone of the cave lead down to a crevasse, where sunlight pours in through an opening in the roof of the cave, and a thin ledge juts out, creating a precarious walkway over a chasm and out to the back side of the hill. Arguably the most interesting of Kampot's unique cave temples is Wat Kirisan, located in Kampong Trach, 29 kilometres from Kep. Twelve-year old Lu Tak is a fount of information when it comes to Wat Kirisan. Armed with a flashlight, he leads visitors down the temple steps and under the mountain into a channel carved out by a now-defunct river. "During the 1970s, the Khmer Rouge used the soil in this cave for the rice paddies nearby because it was full of minerals," he said. "Later, Vietnamese soldiers hid in the caves, but the Khmer Rouge found them and killed them. Some Vietnamese officials returned to collect the bones, but many of their bones still remain in hidden recesses." Ten metres on, the channel opens up into a wide clearing, a hidden garden open to the sky and surrounded by towering walls of limestone. Around the perimeter of the rock walls are grottoes, carved by ancient streams, which contain multiple Buddhist and animist shrines. Some of the grottoes lead to vast underground caverns with lunar-like landscapes and echo with the eerie sound of water softly dripping into the underground pools. Magical powers "Years ago my auntie Diep was very sick and she had a dream that Loak Ta Ey Sey, the spirit of the forest, told her to come here and pray and she would get better. She obeyed and immediately got better, so now people come here to pray to the forest spirit for health, wealth and better life," Lu Tak said. As for Lu Tak, he believes in the spirit's powers but rarely asks it for favours.

Ancient Houses of Battambang

June 16, 2009
By Stephanie Mee
The Phnom Penh Post




HISTORICAL architecture in Cambodia has often been epitomised by the grandiose stone monuments of Angkor, the glittering pagodas sprinkled generously throughout the country and the crumbling facades of French colonial structures.

While many of the traditional wooden Khmer residential dwellings have been demolished to make way for newer concrete models, remnants of Khmer household architecture have survived at Wat Kor Village in Battambang.

Located 2 kilometres south of Battambang city, the village boasts more than 20 traditional wooden homes, many of which date to the early 20th century and are still inhabited by descendants of the original builders.

In an attempt to preserve the historically and culturally significant structures, a number of villagers, with support from the municipal and provincial government of Battambang, have opened their homes to the public, offering guided tours of the grounds and interiors, as well as homestays with meals upon request.

Wat Kor village lies on the banks of the Sangke River, and is blanketed in fruit and palm trees, offering a cool breeze and shade on hot days.

But the placement of the village has more to do with the turbulent history of the region than a blissful location.


Previously under the jurisdiction of the Cambodian royalty, the city of Battambang was annexed by Thailand in the late 18th century following a series of invasions into northern Cambodia and was handed back in 1907 as a result of a French-Siamese treaty.

Yi Sarith, the owner of a house built during that period, is happy to talk about his family's history.
"My grandfather, Loak Ta Tab, worked for a royal governor named Loak Mchass during that time period," he said.

"When Battambang was handed back to Cambodia, Loak Mchass was exiled to Siam. My grandfather lost his title and position under the French rule, and so he decided to build here, away from the main roads and French soldiers, in a place where he could live simply and grow rice."

Loak Ta Tab decided to dismantle an old wooden house built in the kro choam style in 1890, and transport it 2 kilometres away from its original location to Wat Kor village.

In 1907, he added a much larger addition to the front of the kro choam house, in the khor sang style.
The difference between the sections of the house is stark.

The kro choam portion of the house sports dark wooden walls, small windows that open inwards and a low ceiling made of mud brick tiles.

In contrast, the khor sang section has immense windows that open outwards, cool clay wall panels and a high double ceiling, made of intricately patterned slats of hardwood. Fifteen massive wooden pillars hold up the entire structure.

Yi Sarith has retained many memories of his time growing up in the old house, particularly the night it almost burned down.
"I was very young, maybe 4 or 5. Thieves had come to our house one night and stole some things and smashed a beautiful old mirror in our rosewood armoire. A year later they came back, but my mother refused to open the door, so they grabbed a sarong of hers hanging outside, dipped it in oil and left it below one of the pillars to burn the house down. Luckily, my brother saw it and quickly doused the fire after they left," he said.

Shortly afterwards, Yi Sarith's family installed metal strips on the doors to prevent thieves from slashing through, which can still be seen today.

During the Pol Pot regime, the family was evicted from the house and forced to work in camps outside Battambang.
Upon their return in 1979, they found the house empty, but in good condition.

Yi Sarith, his sister Yi La Kheang, and numerous children and grandchildren now inhabit the house.

Down a shady lane away from Yi Sarith's house is the house of Bun Roeurng, built in the pet style in the 1920s.
The style is characterised by two sweeping verandas at the side and front of the house, Naga scale roofing tiles, woven bamboo and plaster walls, and a support of 36 large wooden pillars.

Originally built by an army commander and lawyer, Nou Pinet Phoeng, the house still contains some of its original furniture, as well as all the original hardwood and roof tiles, and is inhabited by the first owner's descendants.

"During the civil war, Khmer Rouge cadres took over the house and threshed rice here. They also used it as a communal place to eat and prepare food, so part of the back of the house is damaged," Bun Roeurng said.

"But other than that, it's completely intact, and with proper care I think it will remain in good condition for many more generations."

Villagers believe that the opening of their houses to visitors will facilitate the maintenance and preservation of their family histories and properties, as well as inform people of a unique time period in Cambodian history.

Although not all homes in Wat Kor village are open to the public, those that are are clearly marked with signs welcoming visitors in Khmer, English and French.

Entry is free, but donations are welcome as money generated by tourism goes towards preservation and maintenance of the buildings.

To visit a piece of history at Wat Kor Cultural Village, follow the Sangke River 2 kilometres south of central Battambang city.

Myanmar cuisine in Cambodia

Medley of diverse dishes provide taste of Myanmar in Cambodia

Written by Stephanie Mee

Wednesday, 25 March 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

Phnom Penh restaurants Irrawaddi and Win Myanmar offer a taste of Myanmar hospitality and cuisine with signature dishes that are bound to make your mouth water Photo by: Tracey Shelton Win Myanmar restaurant in Phnom Penh serves tasty fare. Although not as internationally renowned as the fare in neighbouring countries such as Thailand, China or India, Myanmar cuisine is just as fresh, flavourful and varied as any other type of food in Asia. The culinary tradition in Myanmar, formerly known as Burma, has been influenced over the centuries by its bigger neighbours, and more recently, England and Bangladesh, and this has resulted in a medley of diverse dishes, all with a distinct twist. Typical dishes in Myanmar range from many types of noodle and rice dishes, stir-fried vegetables and meats, curries, fresh and spicy salads, crispy fried fish, sweet sticky rice with shredded coconut, and all manners of soup. "Most Burmese food is fresh, such as the salads, soups and fish dishes, although some fried dishes can be a bit spicy, oily and salty at times," said Cho Cho, former Yangon resident, and owner of Irrawaddi restaurant in Phnom Penh. "That's why we try to attune our dishes to the customer's tastes. We try to change them just a bit so that they suit everyone's palate." Cho Cho estimates that there are about 200 Myanmar nationals residing in Phnom Penh, and her restaurant appears to be a home away from home for many, as well as an assortment of Western and Asian clientele. With some 72 dishes on offer, the menu at Irrawaddi reads like a crash course in the flavours of the diverse regions of Myanmar, with such options as fried bamboo shoots with garden peas and a crispy onion topping, ginger salad, fried bitter gourd and tea leaf salad. "Tea leaf salad is very special in Myanmar," said Cho Cho. "Whenever you go to someone's house to visit, the host will often serve tea leaf salad to the guests, along with hot tea." The tea leaf salad, or le ptet thow, at Irrawaddi is a combination of mild, moist green tea leaves; crunchy white beans; tiny, salty, dried shrimp; fresh tomatoes; fragrant garlic; toasted sesame seeds and a few roasted peanuts for good measure, all tossed in a light oil dressing. Another popular signature dish at Irrawadi is Hilsa fish. Hilsa is an oily fish rich in omega-three fatty acids that is found only in the Bay of Bengal, and a few rivers in Bangladesh and Myanmar. Cho Cho and her team at Irrawaddi import the fish from Myanmar and serve it piping hot and tender, in a rich stew of onions, lemongrass and gravy. I want people to experience the authentic burmese style of hospitality. "Most of the staff here is from Myanmar, and we have become like family," said Cho Cho. "At first they were nervous to serve people because they had no international serving experience, but I said to them: ‘Please maintain your own culture. Do what you did in your family, in your community,' I want people to experience the authentic style of hospitality." Coming from a country that is renowned for its generous and welcoming treatment of guests, it is not surprising that the style of service at Irrawaddi is first rate, with no water glass falling below the halfway point nor a complimentary peanut dish remaining empty for long. Win Myanmar is another restaurant in Phnom Penh that specialises in Myanmar cuisine, and although the atmosphere is not quite as cosy or visually stimulating as Irrawadi's, what they lack in decorative elements, they make up for in impeccable service and tasty Myanmar and Khmer cuisine. Dishes at Win Myanmar include pork and chicken salads, catfish curry, Myanmar-style Biryani rice, and a special dish available every Sunday called mohinga. Often called the national dish of Myanmar, mohinga varies from the north to the south of Myanmar, but a standard mohinga consists of rice vermicelli noodles in a thick fish soup, and contains garlic, onions, lemongrass, ginger, slices of banana tree stem, fish paste, chickpea powder and roasted catfish. "Mohinga is typically a breakfast food, but can be eaten any time of day," said Soueng Vorn, a waiter at Win Myanmar. "We get many customers from Myanmar who come here for our mohinga special, and to sit and chat and enjoy their Sunday afternoon." To enjoy the unique flavours of Myanmar in Phnom Penh head to Irrawaddi Myanmar restaurant, 24 Street 334 or Win Myanmar restaurant, 23 Street 110.

Cambodian Winery

Cambodia's homegrown winery is a hit with drinkers

Written by Stephanie Mee

Wednesday, 10 June 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

Despite the derision of their neighbours, one family’s determination to set up a winery outside of Battambang city marks a first step for modern viticulture Photo by: Stephanie Mee Leng Chan Thol at the wine-tasting gazebo. BATTAMBANG PROVINCE When Leng Chan Thol and her husband Chan Thay Chhoueng decided to grow grapes for wine production just outside Battambang city, people thought they were crazy. "You would have to be very strong, courageous or foolhardy. Wine grapes are not a profitable Cambodian crop, and they are sure to fail,' were the types of things people whispered," said Leng Chan Thol. Fortunately, the young entrepreneurs didn't let the idle chatter discourage them from pioneering Cambodia's first valiant attempt at viticulture. The couple planted their first vines in 1999, and in 2004 the first bottles of Cambodia's only home-grown grape wine were ripe for drinking. "Our families have always been farmers," said Leng Chan Thol from the small wooden tasting gazebo, set amid snaking grape vines and lush tropical foliage on the Chan Thay Chhoueng plantation, 16 kilometres south of Battambang. "In the past we grew oranges on this land, but in the late '90s my husband saw ads on television about making wine, and we became interested in the process," she said. Each day we get anywhere from 10 to 100 tourists tasting our wine ... "At first, it was not easy, and we faced many challenges with the grapes, like insects, birds, over-watering and disease," she said. "But we are farmers, so we just kept growing them, keeping an eye on them and learning from each challenge." Leng Chan Thol explained that, although some grapes do grow naturally in Cambodia, they are not necessarily the best variety for wine production. The grapes grown and harvested at Chan Thay Chhoueng are mainly Shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and merlot varietals imported from France, America, Australia and Japan. Typically, these varietals take well to warm climates, and the 3 hectares of mineral rich and fertile soil at Chan Thay Chhoueng, combined with plentiful sunshine and adequate rainfall, work together to provide an abundant harvest for Leng Chan Thol and her family. "November to March is the best growing season for the grapes, but sometimes we can harvest the grapes up to three times a year, unlike Europe or the Americas where you might only get one harvest a year," Leng Chan Thol said. "Usually it takes about six months to a year after harvesting for the wine to be ready to drink." After harvesting the grapes, Leng Chan Thol and her family crush them by hand in large plastic containers. They then transfer the wine to stainless steel vats where yeast is added to aid in the fermentation process, and the wine is left to ferment for six months to a year. All bottling, corking and labelling is done on-site. The most popular product is the 2005 vintage Shiraz-merlot blend, which retails at US$15 a bottle. Typical of young Shiraz and merlot varietals grown in hot climates, the wine is a rich ruby-red colour, with aromas of blackberries, raspberries and chocolate. Another big seller is the Phnom Banon brandy produced at the plantation and named after the nearby mountain and ancient temple site. Caramel-gold in colour and 40 proof, the brandy packs a powerful punch but is not harsh, with a smooth, sweet aftertaste reminiscent of tropical whiskeys without the bite. Bottles retail at $12. The Chan Thay Chhoueng plantation also sells a sweet, blush-coloured rose for $6 and a light, fruity, non-alcoholic grape juice for $1.50 per bottle. For Leng Chan Thol and her family, the effort and risk has paid off. Small buyers and wholesalers now come from all over Cambodia and abroad to buy their products, and in 2006 Prime Minister Hun Sen paid Chan Thay Chhoueng a visit, lauding Leng Chan Thol for her pioneering spirit. "Each day we get anywhere from 10 to 100 tourists tasting our wine," she said. "So now, all those people who thought I would fail, well, I think they are quite embarrassed about their lack of faith." And Leng Chan Thol's ambition doesn't stop there. Her plans for the future include purchasing more land to plant different grape varietals and a small restaurant that serves dishes using fresh, organic produce grown on-site. Chan Thay Chhoueng plantation is located at #72, Bot Sala Village, Banon District, 16 kilometres south of Battambang City. For more information call 012 665 238.

Zorbing in Cambodia

Zorbing makes S'ville adventure park go round

Written by Stephanie Mee

Wednesday, 03 June 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

Photo by: Anita Surewicz A ‘zorb’ ball rolls down a hill at at Sihanoukville’s I-ball Adventure Park. IMAGINE crawling inside a giant transparent plastic ball similar to a hamster wheel although softer, strapping yourself to the sides and hurling yourself down a hill so that earth and sky blend into one long continuous loop as you bounce and tumble down the hill, finally coming to an abrupt stop at the bottom of the slope. It sounds like the product of the overactive imagination of a drunken frat boy, but it's real, it's a sport, and it's available just outside Sihanoukville. Technically known as Zorbing or sphering, the sport was first invented by Dwayne van der Sluis and Andrew Akers in New Zealand in 1994. The idea caught on, and since then the sport has been enjoyed in countries such as England, Australia, the US and Thailand. The main version of the Zorb ball is actually a combination of two plastic PVC balls, one inside the other, with a layer of air between the two balls that acts as a shock absorber. Most balls fit two people, although variations include balls for one to three people, and even an aqua ball where buckets of water are tossed in before the ride in order to create a washing machine-like effect. "Everyone who comes here leaves absolutely loving it," said Colm McMenamin, the Irish owner of the I-ball Adventure Park, 11 kilometres north of Sihanoukville. "I saw this sport on YouTube about two years ago, and I knew I wanted to do this. I thought Sihanoukville would be the perfect spot because there can be a real lack of things to do in the daytime here other than sit on the beach and drink beer." For US$10, adventurous customers can have unlimited rides in the 3-metre I-ball, which is designed for two people at a time. Punters get in at the top of the 120-metre hill and whirl their way past banana trees and leafy shrubs on the manicured track that leads down to a bamboo bridge, which slows the ball down so it comes to a gentle stop in a grassy clearing. "At first it feels really slow and steady, but then it starts speeding up. It's quite wild," said Becky Walsh, an English tourist. "All you can see is sky, ground, sky, ground. I thought it would make me a bit dizzy or maybe sick, but it doesn't. It's good fun." According to Colm, visitors to the adventure park ride the I-ball an average of 3 to 4 times. "Usually, people will go once or twice, have a beer and relax, and then go maybe one or two more times before they go home. However, when we get families visiting, the kids sometimes go nuts, and some of them could ride it all day long," he said. The I-ball Adventure Park also has an 80-metre zip line over a lake, a river and rock pool for swimming, picnic areas and a volleyball court. The park officially closes for the rainy season from June to November but will remain open to groups by appointment. To arrange an I-ball experience, or for more information, please contact Colm on 016 910 564.

Karavanh restaurant review

Classic Khmer food served in an intimate bistro setting

Written by Stephanie Mee

Wednesday, 03 June 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

Phnom Penh’s Kravanh restaurant serves reasonably priced mix of popular Khmer dishes and more unusual regional fare in comfortable surroundings Photo by: Sovann Philong Phnom Penh’s Kravanh restaurant serves artfully prepared and inexpensive Khmer dishes. When foreign friends of Toan Sophie would ask her where to find good Khmer food in Phnom Penh, she was always hesitant to make a recommendation. Which place would be comfortable, clean, reasonably priced and representative of classic Khmer dishes? It was her lack of an answer to this question that eventually led her to open Kravanh with her sister and brother-in-law. "When my sister and her family moved back to Cambodia from Southern France, they approached me with the idea of opening a restaurant," said Toan Sophie, while simultaneously greeting the flood of hungry lunchtime patrons pouring through the door. "I told them that what is missing here is typical Khmer food in a nice setting, but at reasonable prices." Located in the Hong Kong Centre on Sothearos Boulevard, the intimate bistro-like setting exudes good taste, with dark wooden chairs and tables, original paintings depicting Cambodian daily life and elegant reed place mats. At first glance, the restaurant might seem to be quite high-end, with its smooth lines, crisp air-conditioning, sleek modern plates and wine glasses at each place setting; but the artfully prepared Khmer dishes are actually a steal at only US$4-$6.50 a plate. "My plan was not just to make money, but also to promote Khmer food," said Toan Sophie. "I want more people to taste Khmer food, and so I want to offer dishes at prices that everyone can afford." My plan was not just to make money, but also to promote khmer food. Mixed cuisine The fare at Kravanh is a mix of popular Khmer dishes that can be found all over Cambodia, as well as a few dishes that are not commonly served in most Khmer restaurants. Starters include Neang Lao, a mixture of sauteed ground pork with peanuts, wrapped in steamed sweet potato leaves, and served with crispy golden sheets of fried sticky rice, or the more commonly known pork spring rolls with vegetables, although grilled rather than deep fried. "Normally spring rolls can be quite greasy, so we decided to grill them instead to cut out all the fat and make them healthier," said Toan Sophie. She explained that while some Khmer food is fried, most dishes are actually very natural and healthy, as they are made with fresh herbs and vegetables. "If you freeze or refrigerate your ingredients, you lose about half of the taste, and then you don't get the true Khmer tastes and smells," she said. Main courses at Kravanh rely heavily on fresh ingredients, as is evident with the popular nom banchok curry, a steaming bowl of rice vermicelli noodles topped with sizable chunks of sweet potato, eggplant, crunchy green beans and bean sprouts, julienne cucumber, and tender, juicy chicken literally falling off the bone, all swimming in a mild yellow curry broth. Toan Sophie says that the most popular dish with Khmer visitors has been the Soup of the Forest, a spicy and hearty soup with sliced beef and fresh green morning glory in a slightly sour and tangy tamarind-flavoured base. "In the future, I hope to include more regional dishes," said Toan Sophie. "For example, in Battambang they make a dish with fried honeycomb and bananas that is very delicious, and in Siem Reap and in some parts of the west, coconut cream is used quite often in curries and soups. But for now, we're just testing out popular Khmer dishes you might find anywhere in Cambodia." Although the menu at Kravanh is truly Khmer, evidence of the time that Toan Sophie and her family spent in France is apparent from the simple yet discerning wine list, and the aesthetically pleasing, cosy wooden bar that offers a collection of fine spirits and aperitifs, freshly brewed coffee and various sodas and juices. As snippets of jovial French conversation audibly blend with Khmer and English in the background, Toan Sophie reiterates her love for Khmer cuisine. "I love to cook and our family loves to eat, so I hope that people will visit us and enjoy the true Khmer tastes that we love so much," she said. Enjoy traditional Khmer cuisine in the elegant yet reasonably priced Kravanh at 110 Sothearos Boulevard.

Walking a Fine Line in Ecotourism

Walking a fine line in ecotourism Written by Stephanie Mee
Monday, 01 June 2009
The Phnom Penh Post

While income generated by ecotourism has the potential to help preserve wilderness areas and sustain villages, not all 'ecotourism' businesses are living up to their responsibilities

With more than 43,000 square kilometres of protected forests, national parks, wildlife sanctuaries and marine ecosystems, Cambodia has tremendous opportunities for ecotourism.

While ecotourism ventures are on the rise across the Kingdom, the line between what helps and what harms the environment - and the definition of ecotourism itself - is blurry.

For example, an environmental impact assessment report on a company given a land concession in Kandal province to build an ecotourism site concluded the work would pollute and destroy the habitats of both humans and animals.

The line is further blurred with authorised constructions in protected areas and the forcible displacement of locals to create room for tourism ventures which claim to be eco-friendly.

So how does one differentiate between legitimate ecotourism and tourism for mere economic gain?
In 1990, the International Ecotourism Society defined ecotourism as "responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people".

In principle, ecotourism has minimal environmental impact, uses recycling and efficient sources of energy, conserves water and wildlife, and promotes sustainability within local communities. It requires the informed consent of local communities to use their land or territory, respects local culture, creates jobs for local people and benefits local economies.

According to Janet Newman, owner of the eco-friendly Rainbow Lodge in Koh Kong province, there are two main types of ecotourism in Cambodia: community based ecotourism (CBET) and private sector ecotourism.

In 1997, CBET was defined as tourism that takes environmental, social and cultural sustainability into account, she said.

"It is managed and owned by the community, for the community, with the purpose of enabling visitors to increase their awareness and learn about the community and local ways of life," Newman said. She said private sector ecotourism should try to emulate this definition.

A particularly good example of CBET in Cambodia is a site next to Kirirom National Park in Kampong Speu province.

The Chambok Community Based Ecotourism Site was created in 2001 by Mlup Baitong, a local Cambodian NGO devoted to environmental education and natural resource management, and a member of the Cambodia CBET Network.

The site boasts guided nature trails to a 40-metre-high waterfall, bird watching, traditional oxcart rides and homestays with local villagers. All revenues stay in the community and are used in part to conserve the forest.

Project Coordinator Prak Thearith said before 2001 there was a lot of illegal hunting and logging in the area and the people were poor.

"We wanted to provide the villagers with income and encourage them not to destroy the environment," Prak Thearith said.
"For example, using ox-carts and drivers to transport tourists instead of illegal timber, or training hunters to be nature guides instead of hunting rare animals."

Today, income in the village has increased, literacy rates are up, infrastructure has improved, and the villagers are almost entirely self-sufficient. And villagers have an incentive to preserve the forest rather than deplete it.

Private sector tourism in Cambodia is also on the rise, notably with the huge successes of Rainbow Lodge in Koh Kong province and Yaklom Hill Lodge in Ratanakkiri province.

"I would say the potential for this kind of tourism market in Cambodia is very high, considering the abundant resources," said Sompong Sritatera, manager of Yaklom Hill Lodge.

But he warns many people abuse the word ecotourism to promote their business, with little or no background knowledge.

"For example, some people think that when you come to Ratanakiri, anything you have done here is ‘ecotourism'," he said. "Same for some business owners that market their place as offering ecotourism activities without even knowing the basics of it."

Both Sompong Sritatera and Newman agreed that while ecotourism has the potential to grow in Cambodia, it will be difficult to implement properly unless people take steps to preserve the environment and local cultures rather than simply profit from Cambodia's natural resources.

"I do believe that there is a certain amount of will on behalf of the government to endorse and embrace ecotourism," said Newman.

"Good examples of this are the mangrove walkway at Peam Krasop wildlife sanctuary and the ranger stations at Thma Bang and Chipat, all in Koh Kong province.

"However, many of these projects have been set up by organisations like Wildlife Alliance and Conservation International."
Newman said the future of successful ecotourism in Cambodia lay in education and awareness.

"We must ensure that Khmer people themselves understand the importance of such projects and see that some benefit will be passed on to them and their community," she said.

"This comes from education, not only of those in the field, but also education at an early stage at schools of the importance of the forests and rivers.

"Only if we can persuade the government and the people that there is a benefit to them in environmental and wildlife preservation will it ever happen.

"Therefore, the more people that insist on and support eco-friendly ventures, the more this message will filter through."

Read more about ecotourism in Cambodia at:

http://lostinasia.hubpages.com/hub/Chambok-Community-Based-Ecotourism-Site

Bears get a Second Chance at Phnom Tamao Zoo

Bears get a second chance at Phnom Tamao Zoo

Written by Stephanie Mee

Wednesday, 21 January 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

With countless animals in Cambodia falling victim to illegal wildlife trade, one organisation offers a safe and healthy environment for rescued bears. Photo by: Photo Supplied Harry is one of several vulnerable Sun Bears that fall prey each year to poachers or wealthy families looking to acquire an exotic pet. THE timid, brown Sun Bear peered suspiciously out of his cage in the quarantine area of the Phnom Tamao Zoo, nervously growling if anybody came near him. He was extremely sick when he arrived at the zoo and had to have daily injections of antibiotics. Hence, his aversion to humans. His name is Harry, and he was recently rescued from the fourth floor of a wealthy Phnom Penh family home. Harry was purchased from a dealer in Ratanakkiri by his previous owners when he was three weeks old and taken to Phnom Penh as a family pet. Not knowing how to properly care for a wild bear, the family fed him a diet of tap water mixed with sweetened condensed milk and kept him in a small cage, barely big enough for a dog. By the time he was rescued a year later, he was weak, emaciated and had lost large patches of fur that had rubbed off when he paced against the metal bars of the cage. "I had to carry him in my arms down four flights of stairs, as the transport cage could not fit up the narrow passageways," said head bear keeper at the zoo, Chuon Vuthy. The keeper works for an organisation called Free the Bears Fund Inc, which runs a centre at the Phnom Tamao Zoological Gardens and Wildlife Rescue Centre, 40 kilometres south of Phnom Penh. The Australian NGO was created in 1995 in response to the terrible treatment of illegally poached bears, many of which are cruelly imprisoned and sold for their body parts and bile, often used in Chinese medicines. Free the Bears operates centres in five countries across Asia. They work together with local authorities to combat the illegal wildlife trade, and provide care and rehabilitation to hundreds of bears. The Cambodian operation The centre in Cambodia has been open since 1997. "We get some of the bears from the illegal wildlife trade and some have been donated by wealthy people," Chuon Vuthy explained. "Sometimes, we go to people's homes where bears are being kept as pets, and we explain to them that it's illegal to keep wild animals as pets or property. We tell them that they can donate the bears to the zoo, where we can care for them properly. Sometimes they do and sometimes they don't." Photo by: Photo Supplied One of the caregivers at the center with Nutkins . In October, the centre took on three new bear cubs, two of which had been donated to the zoo, and one of which had been taken from a poacher in Pursat province. Holly, a small but friendly Sun Bear, had caught her leg in a poacher's snare and lost her hind paw as a result. She is also missing three of her front claws, which the poacher offered no explanation for. At the centre, she is receiving the medical care she needs, as well as a safe and healthy environment in which to grow. A large family Free the Bears currently houses 102 bears at the Phnom Tamao Zoo in 16 outdoor enclosures with a wealth of trees and wooden walkway. The bear species are made up of Asiatic Black Bears and Sun Bears, both of which are listed as a vulnerable species by the International Union for Conservation of Nature. Bears at the zoo are closely monitored to ensure that they are healthy and happy, and there is an onsite veterinarian for any medical problems that may arise. "As of now, none of the bears are released back into the wild, as much of their natural habitat has been lost, and they have become too accustomed to people, but I'm hoping that will change in the future," said Chuon Vuthy. Phnom Tamao Zoo and the Free the Bears Fund Inc are currently building two new wooded enclosures where the bears can forage and play, and a new indoor holding pen for up to 20 bears. This new space will house the bears at the zoo, as well as future arrivals. Volunteer opportunities Volunteers are welcome at the centre. At present, they can sign on for one to six weeks to help feed and clean the bears. Volunteer packages include accommodation at a house near the sanctuary, transportation to the centre as well as breakfast and dinner. Interested parties have the opportunity to learn from veteran bear keeper of 12 years, Chuon Vuthy, and his highly trained and knowledgeable colleagues. We get some of the bears from the illegal wildlife trade and some have been donated by wealthy people. "The first day the volunteers are here, we teach them the rules - what they can and can't do so nobody gets hurt," said Chuon Vuthy. "Then, we teach them how to clean the cages, feed the bears and take general observations. Volunteers learn a lot, and they seem to really enjoy the time they spend here." Matt Hunt, the Southeast Asia program manager and CEO, said: "It's great for people to come in and meet the bears, meet their personalities and learn about the program. For example, I can go tell people in Australia what we're doing here in about 30 minutes, but it doesn't really give them a clear idea about the centre or the bears themselves." Each week the centre accepts no more than six volunteers, ensuring that the number of visitor caregivers never exceeds the number of onsite bear keepers. Free the Bears Fund Inc is also in the process of opening a new centre for bears three hours away from Phnom Tamao on the South coast of Vietnam, where they plan to create small eco-lodges where volunteers can stay onsite and take part in caring for and learning about rescued bears in the region. The first bears will move there this month, and the centre should be open to volunteers in 2010.

Pre-Angkor Stone Carving a Modern Affair

Pre-Angkor stone-carving remains very modern affair

Written by STEPHANIE MEE

Monday, 26 January 2009 The Phnom Penh Post

Nearly lost amid the violence and cultural nihilism of the Khmer Rouge, stone carvers continue to find markets for their ancient tradecraft Photo by: Stephanie Mee Veteran stone-carver Touey puts the finishing touches on a statue in Phnom Penh. THE ancient art of Khmer stone-carving has its roots in the pre-Angkorian period and has been passed down from generation to generation of artisans for centuries. Common themes in ancient Khmer sculpture include deities from the Ramayana (in Khmer, the Ream Ker), such as Vishnu, Brahma and Hanuman, as well as varying images of the Buddha reclining, standing with one palm facing outwards to signify protection from fear, or sitting in meditation in front of a giant naga (or snake) with multiple heads. Not uncommon was the representation of the Khmer royalty or aristocracy in the form of various stone deities, a clear example of which can be seen in the massive stone heads at the Bayon temple at the Angkor Wat complex, which combine the image of King Jayavarman VII and Buddha. During the Khmer Rouge regime, many skilled artists were either forced to work in the rice fields or perished in the horrors that marked the Democratic Kampuchea period and the civil war that followed. Those who survived had little means to begin carving again. Cultural revival Fortunately, the 1990s were a period of reconstruction, rehabilitation and revival in Cambodia, and numerous NGOs began helping disadvantaged Cambodian people to reintegrate themselves into the workforce. In particular, Chantiers-Ecoles de Formation Professionelle, and its offshoot Artisans d'Angkor, were established to help train underprivileged youth in the country's many almost-extinct Khmer artistic traditions and techniques, including stone-carving. Today, large stone-carving production centres can be found mainly in the municipalities and provinces of Pursat, Preah Vihear, Kampong Thom, Banteay Meanchey, Siem Reap and Phnom Penh, though smaller centres exist throughout the Kingdom. In Phnom Penh, the bulk of stone-carving workshops can be found on Street 178, across the road from Wat Sarawan. I learned from my uncle and other family members in our village. Det Ourn, 16, works out of his uncle's workshop, Kon Khmer Sculpture on Street 178. "I learned from my uncle and other family members in our village," Det Ourn said. "First, I just watched others carving and I followed what they did. Then, I began to practise on my own, and today I can make any kind of statue." Patience is key One medium-sized Buddha statue can take up to one month to complete and involves considerable patience, Det Ourn said. "First, you paint an outline of the shape on the block of stone and begin to carve carefully with a chisel. When the rough shape has been chiselled out, you can begin to sand and polish the stone into the smooth, finished image. For extra details like eyes, mouths, creases in cloth and things like flowers, you can use a fine, small chisel or an electric sander," he said. One veteran artisan says a variety of markets exist for today's carvers. "The Angkorian, or traditional styles from the Ream Ker, are mostly bought for private homes, restaurants or businesses, while the traditional Buddhas and the modern, life-sized Buddhas and monks with alms bowls are generally bought for temples," said a veteran stone-carver from the Ta Phrom shop who goes by the name Touey. Touey learned the art of stone-carving from his brother, who had learned it from their grandfather. Touey and his family were forced to work in the rice fields under the Khmer rouge. "Fortunately, my family remembered the traditional ways and we began carving again in the late 1980's," Touey said. Most statues are made from sandstone from Preah Vihear or Kampong Thom provinces, while high-quality marble is sourced mainly from Pursat province, where stone-carving has become a major industry. Statues range from grainy pink and grey sandstone pieces to smoothly polished marble, shining in colours from jade green to crimson to pale yellow. Thanks to the perseverance of artisans and NGOs, stone-carving is on the rise again, and talented artists like Det Ourn and Touey can make a living doing what their ancestors have done for centuries before.

Bites Cafe

Halal Bites a 'taste of home'

Written by Stephanie Mee

Monday, 23 February 2009

Phnom Penh's 'Bites Restaurant' draws hungry regulars with its varied and reasonably priced assortment of traditional Malaysian halal dishes Photo by: Stephanie Mee Bites Restaurant opened after owner Tina’s packed lunches for husband Raaj drew attention and acclaim. Nestled amongst a plethora of bicycle shops and guesthouses on bustling Street 107 is a small restaurant that draws customers with its reasonably priced, traditional Malaysian cuisine, prepared according to strict halal standards. All meat products used at Bites Restaurant - excluding pork or pork products, which the restaurant does not offer - come from Phnom Penh's Russey Keo district, where they are prepared by local Cham Muslims. Meat used at the restaurant is authenticated as a genuine halal product with a certificate from the local mosque, stamped by the mosque's imam. Halal is an Arabic word meaning "lawful or permissible" according to Islamic law, and when it comes to food, there are strict rules as to what can and should be consumed. Basically, this means that all animals must be slaughtered humanely in an outdoor area and then meticulously cleaned. Pork or pork by-products are strictly forbidden. Seafood is considered halal, or not haram, which is the opposite of halal. Small beginnings Bites Restaurant began as the brainchild of husband-and-wife team Raaj and Tina Singh, and a 10-year veteran halal chef, Ada. "In the beginning Tina, who has been cooking halal food for about 10 years, would often cook lunch at home and bring some to me at work," said Raaj, who also teaches at a private English school. "People at work began noticing the quality and variety of the food she brought and started placing orders. Pretty soon, Tina was selling up to ten tiffins [four-tiered tin lunch boxes] a day." At that time, Ada was also catering from home, mainly to casinos and local businesses in and around Phnom Penh. As Tina and Ada had worked together previously in a Malaysian halal restaurant, and both were becoming busier as demand for their food skyrocketed, it seemed natural to join forces and open a full-service restaurant and catering operation. "At first our target customers were travellers, as many people who travel like to try different types of food, and we thought they would enjoy our diverse menu," said Raaj. "However, after almost two years in business, our clientele is now mainly local expats from all over the world, vacationing and resident Malaysians and Singaporeans looking for a taste of home, and local Chams and Khmers." On the menu The name Bites refers to the idea of having a bit of everything. While the restaurant serves food and drinks from many different countries, it is the vibrant Malaysian and Singaporean hawker food as well as traditional Khmer dishes in which chefs Tina and Ada excel. Typical offerings on the menu include rendang, which consists of either beef or chicken slowly cooked in coconut milk and spices until it is tender enough to fall off the bone, fluffy roti bread known as roti chennai served with a homemade red curry sauce, and a rich and savory fish-head curry. When asked what the most popular dish at Bites is, Tina answered without hesitation, "Definitely nasi lemak". Often referred to as Malaysia's national dish, nasi lemak is a combination of coconut rice, roasted peanuts mixed with small, salty, dried fish, cucumber slices, boiled egg and a mildly spicy shrimp paste sauce. Included is a side of fried fish, chicken, or beef, or a choice of rendang. Topping off the drink menu is the renowned teh tarik, known as "long tea", a mixture of strong black tea and sweetened condensed milk, poured back and forth between two containers before being served to obtain a thick, foamy head and a perfectly balanced flavour. Bites is located at 240B on Street 107 and is open from 7:30am to 10pm daily.